Nairobi Barabara

「Nairobi Barabara(ナイロビ・バラバラ)」では、食やファッション、アート、書籍、ニュース、子育て、制作活動など、バラバラなテーマのもと、ナイロビの日常的な事柄をレポートします。ナイロビに暮らす西尾工作所ナイロビ支部のメンバー3名が気ままに執筆しています。

※画面左側の「contents」より「Nairobi Barabara」をクリックしていただくと、これまでの投稿がすべて表示されます。

We’ve started “Nairobi Barabara” in which 3 members of Nishio Workshop Nairobi regularly report their daily lives in Nairobi in their own way on our blog, writing under various themes like food, fashion, art, book, news, childcare and production activities. The word “barabara” has 2 meanings; “various”, in Japanese and “streets”, in Kiswahili, an official language of Kenya. We hope that our reports will take you for a walk around the city of Nairobi.

*Please click the title "Nairobi Barabara" in a table of "contents" on the left side, then you can read all the past reports.

Kenyan indulgences

One of the most common sights in any Kenyan neighbor hood, the eggs and smokies on standby are the newest most popular indulgence in Kenya today, with the biggest effect being felt in Nairobi. Its basically boiled eggs and smokies with traces of scantily made kachumbari and sauce, maybe even chilli, sold at double the buying price, sometimes more. The egg will cost 20 bob, maybe more, same as the smokie although the price of the latter changes with location. In more affluent neighbor hoods it’s much more expensive. It is easy to say that these two have become the new drug in town because they are so damn addictive, once you start you want to have more, and more, even if not right away.

Eggs and smokies were not always the kings and queens of fast food indulgence in Kenya. In fact a few years ago eggs were restricted to big hotels or eating joints and homes and smokies were a reserve of the well given in society, I for one knew about them much later in life. The oldest I know of, and love religiously, is the roast maize (corn), or boiled, sold in pieces valued at as little as 5 bob. Many people in Nairobi buy this in the evening on their way back home from work, or something. It’s something you eat for the sake of it, and you can take it with the evening tea. Best part being you will always find them, easily, all year round, unless of course you live in the same hood as the president.

There are also others like the very famous mutura, a delicacy made from unwanted remains from the slaughter house, the world famous chips, and chicken, and also great showstoppers like nyama choma, which makes a very good lunch and is dearly loved by public officers and the rest of Kenyans who want to show off to their pals. Roast peanuts are also a common sight, that I also like very much, especially to do alongside mahindi choma (roast maize); the aroma it gives is just so amazing, and being a food conscious chap, its much healthier and fewer in caloric content than all the rest so far mentioned.

There is this myth about mahindi choma together with njugu karanga(roast peanut) and boilo (boiled eggs) will boost sexual stamina, as the young men of Kenya put it. In my opinion thats all bull, not that I haven’t tried, and that I have can also not be told here. But its not uncommon to hear someone give it as a reason, or be asked if that is your reason for having any or all of the three.

April 17, 2013 David Omondi

「Spray for Change」ケニア大統領選挙と平和の誓い



ケニアのアート界でも詩や映像、絵画、パフォーマンスなどあらゆる表現手段を使った多様なプロジェクトが企画されました。その1つが「Spray for Change」。ケニアの玄関ともいえるジョモ・ケニヤッタ国際空港の工事現場を囲う全長400メートルのトタン板に、10名のグラフィティー・アーティストたちが「新しいケニア」をテーマに描きました。ケニア最大のペンキ会社Duracoatが主催しており、インターネット投票で一番人気のあったアーティストに25万円の賞金が贈られます。これから半年〜8ヶ月は現在地に展示されているとのこと。空からナイロビに降り立ったらまず最初に出会うアートプロジェクトです。



Spray for Changeの公式ウェブサイト(本プロジェクトを分かりやすく紹介しているドキュメンタリー映像付き)

2013年3月16日 西尾咲子






2013年2月4日 西尾咲子

Nairobi judo

For many years, the sport and practice of judo remained as a reserve of the disciplined forces of Kenya, save for two, maybe less, places like Malindi where actual civilians got to practice. In the recent years however, the practice has greatly decentralized from the forces with the establishment of civilians clubs such as the one in Rongai, run by a guy called Nyundo, and most importantly, to me, the introduction of judo to Kenyatta University.

When I joined in 2008, the practice was sort of dying because the university saw no value in hiring a qualified coach to run the show, which forced students to bear the whole burden of teaching the art they understood very little, if any, about, but that did not stop me from joining the bandwagon. After a year of practice I was promoted to the rank of green belt and made captain of the team, which meant I now had to teach others what I had so far learnt. I taught break falls, a couple of throws and some few mat maneuvers, but after some time I started getting the feeling that I wasn’t making any real progress myself, so the passion slowly faded, and I also got bigger and better fish to fry.

A year or so later we have a new coach from South Africa and the fire in me kind of just rekindled with a vengeance. I excavated my judogi from the depths of places not many want to know, cleaned it up and went back to the tatami. Although I lost quite some precision somewhere along the course of time, I practice harder and with more determination than before, knowing I can keep my kodokan dream alive.

Still the practice and sport of judo is rather uncommon in the country being there no more than 10 clubs, a weak embattled association and minimal to zero publicity. Maybe, I hope, many people will get a chance to learn this beautiful art when there are more clubs in Nairobi and the larger Kenya, and maybe I will be part of that change, I’ll be honored. Apart from Nairobi, Nakuru and Malindi are the only other places one can practice judo in Kenya.

January 30, 2013 David Omondi

Bush gym

Deep in the guts of kileleshwa, some place one would call beautiful scenery, and the other dull surrounding, my friend and former classmate has founded and runs an outdoor gym where his friends and he train. Using improvised equipment that are made from easily available stuff such as construction blocks or cement and ballast and heavy metallic water pipes, the gym runs on completely zero expenses, save for buying things like mats and pretty dumbbells for training women and girls.
Having had pretty hard times that made him drop out of the university, Victor Ochieng’ never gave up on his passion for body building and fitness. According to me Victor is one of those people that get too passionate about certain things to the point of contagion because looking back at my university life in the earlier years when I still was not sure what I wanted with my life, Victor knew his exact course and that is one of the reasons I stayed motivated.

The most peculiar thing about bush gym is the relaxed atmosphere. Put that together with the wide wild range of possibilities an outdoor set up presents and one gets the feeling of invincibility, victory after every training session. The other point of interesting note is the fact that bush gym manages its way around the great hurdle of “expensive” in the fitness world of Nairobi. Looking at the neighborhood in which it is situated, kileleshwa, many gyms charge an arm and a leg for a training session, the same quality, maybe less, that one gets at bush gym, at the lowest expense ever. The gym also takes personal training clients in the early mornings and late evenings.

Sad part about bush gym is, as I experienced last time I was there, the scorching sun of the midmorning and afternoon, and of course the possibility of rain that would force one to cancel a training session. Keep all factors constant and its one of the best places to ever train at. Personally I try to go there at least once a week, and if I have the time for it twice or thrice a week.

January 21, 2013 David Omondi

書籍紹介:『Trading Places』と『Wall Art In Kenya』


Steve Bloom『Trading Places: The Merchants of Nairobi』(Thames & Hudson、2009)

場所はKiberaやMajengo、Langata Kitengela Roadなどのディープなナイロビが選ばれている。職業も年齢も多種多様な店主を取材しており、各自ポートレートとインタビュー、店の外観や室内の様子といった構成で、全14組が登場する。同じ型にはまっていない撮影の方法やレイアウトと、インターバルにイレギュラーな写真が挟み込まれていて、見るものを飽きさせない。

Arvind Vohora『Wall Art In Kenya』(Arvind Vohora、2011)

タンザニアで生まれたArvind Vohoraは、ロンドンで写真を学んだ後、1979年にナイロビに移り住んで写真家として活躍。1980年代に半年間かけてケニアのあらゆる場所を旅して壁画を取材している。台頭するブランドの看板や広告によって姿を消しつつあるこうしたコマーシャル・アートという一つのアートの現象を記録するのが本書の目的で、ケニアの大手通信会社サファリコムのバックアップで出版されている。壁画は確かに面白いのだが、メイド・イン・ケニアの本で単調なレイアウトと味気ないブックデザインが残念というほかない。
Arvind Vohoraは、ケニア国内のビジュアルアートを発展させることを目的に1995年にナイロビに設立されたKuona Trust/ Centre for Visual Arts in Kenyaの共同設立者の一人でもある。

2013年1月10日 西尾美也


ケニアでは2012年にさまざまな出来事がありました。主要新聞社「Nation」によるニュース総まとめ記事「Farewell 2012」を引用しながら2012年を駆け足で振り返り、今年に臨みましょう。

1. ストライキだらけ:公立の小中学校教師や大学の講師、医者、看護士、公共交通機関などが各地でストライキを行ない、庶民の日常生活に欠かせないさまざまなサービスが麻痺しました。

2. アルシャバブ闘争:ケニア軍がソマリアのテロ組織アルシャバブの拠点キスマユを9月28日に攻略しました。2011年の10月から駐留していた兵士たちが凱旋しました。このテロ組織との戦いにより、ケニア兵士35名が死亡、さらにナイロビやモンバサ、ガリッサなどの主要都市でテロ攻撃が頻発するようになりました。

3. バラゴイ虐殺:11月10日、リフトバレー州サンブル市のバラゴイ地区で牛略奪集団によってケニア警察40名超が襲撃され殺害されました。

4. サイトティ墜落死:6月11日、国内防衛大臣のジョージ・サイトティと補佐官ジョシュア・オジョデの乗ったヘリコプターがナイロビ市内で墜落。全乗員6名が死亡しました。詳細は調査中ですが、麻薬組織がらみの謀略ともいわれています。

5. タナ虐殺:ケニアにとって2012年8月は最悪の月だといわれました。さまざまな悪いニュースが立て続けに起こったこの月末、タナ地区で2つのコミュニティの対立が激化。村々の襲撃が繰り返され、その累計死者数は139名超にのぼっています。12月21日には再び39名が殺される襲撃が起きています。

6. デイビッド・ルディシャの金メダル:8月2日、オリンピック800メートル競技でデイビッド・ルディシャが金メダルを獲得。1分40秒91の世界記録をたたき出しました。同レースでティモシー・キツムも3位に入りました。

7. オバマ大統領再選:ケニア西部出身の父をもつオバマ大統領が11月6日に再選し、ケニアも喜びで包まれました。

8. 各政党が同盟を結ぶ:今年3月4日の大統領選にむけて、各政党が12月に同盟を結びました。大統領最有力候補のライラとウフルが、それぞれカロンゾとルートという強力政治家と手を結び、国内は政治的緊張が高まり始めています。5年前のような部族対立による殺戮という悲劇を繰り返さないために、さまざまな取り組みも見られます。


2013年1月1日 西尾咲子






20121212日 西尾咲子











20121210日 西尾咲子



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